Well, that's it. Two months done and dusted. Where the hell did it go?
Our Qantas flight from Los Angeles to Melbourne was smooth and went quickly. Both our seats reclined this time, and without another passenger beside us, we had three seats. Sweet! Melbourne to Wellington was not as smooth as we approached Wellington. Lucky us ... strong winds and rain. I could feel my Northern Hemisphere Summer tan fading as we landed.
Returning to New Zealand with any outdoor gear and any food is always going to slow one down when going through Customs, but we prepared well. The Customs official seemed quite impressed with James' cleaning job and said our shoes were the cleanest she had ever seen.
We've been back in NZ for a few days now. The jet-lag is almost gone, laundry has been washed, grocery shopping has been done, and we both did a work-out today. Reflecting on the adventure of the past two months and settling back into whatever normal is has begun ... at least for me. James, on the other hand, has another month of 'Smoko' left. So no doubt, he has more to add to this blog as his adventure continues.
When we decided to take this 'Three Month Smoko', we knew we both had different reasons for doing so. And when we decided to blog about our 'Smoko', we both knew we would have different things to share. Up to now, James has been doing most of the blogging. But now that the Northern Hemisphere adventure is over, I'll be sharing some thoughts, reflections and planning tips on the adventure.
Stay tuned ...
- Carmen
19 September 2016
14 September 2016
The Party is Almost Over
By the time that Monday rolled around, we knew that we had only two more days left in the Northern Hemisphere. We packed up and prepared to leave the desert for the big smoke.
Having spent Saturday with family, the last two days of the trip were spent doing last-minute shopping and getting organised for travelling. Oh yes, and cleaning the outdoor gear in preparation for going through NZ Customs.
The lover of all things gear that he is, James offered to do the clean-up while I went with my sister to get my hair done. When I returned later that afternoon, I found tramping and running shoes that I think were cleaner than when we bought them. The bathroom and white hotel towels, on the other hand ... well, they had seen better days.
With mixed feelings, but ready to see home again, we drove through Los Angeles traffic during rush hour to catch the long flights back down-under.
- Carmen
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| Is this really all of ours? |
The lover of all things gear that he is, James offered to do the clean-up while I went with my sister to get my hair done. When I returned later that afternoon, I found tramping and running shoes that I think were cleaner than when we bought them. The bathroom and white hotel towels, on the other hand ... well, they had seen better days.
With mixed feelings, but ready to see home again, we drove through Los Angeles traffic during rush hour to catch the long flights back down-under.
- Carmen
12 September 2016
Back to the Desert
After the altitude and solitude of Mammoth lakes, I drove south to Palm Springs. Yes, I drove. The roads were long, wide and smooth. I leave the city driving to Carmen, but grew to love driving the country roads or freeways inter-state. Cruise control rocks!
The last time we were in PS was after we first arrived, if you recall. This time we didnt have the 118F heat to contend with. This time it was a balmy 97F (about 30C). I had booked us into a flash hotel and spa in the desert city of La Quinta. This place had free breakfast, free happy hour each night complete with free snacks, a pool and fitness room.
We took advantage of all of these less the pool. I had gotten a bit too much sun by the pool in Mammoth, so was still glowing in the dark, and in no state to scare the locals. It was still too hot anyway, even at 9pm.
The aim of being here this time was to decompress further after our whistle-stop tour so far. Visiting and staying with friends or family is great, but is taxing. So is checking in and out of hotels every few days. It was also to be close to Carmen's Brother, so we could visit one more time, which we did. It was good to see them again and share a few laughs over a great lunch.
This time round we didn't go up the aerial tramway again due to high winds. This time I picked one of the local canyons to explore. Being on Indian land, they are managed by the local tribe of the Agua Caliente Indians. It was quite something to be out in the desert in 100F heat, yet be cool under the shade of centuries-old palm trees in an oasis! Very cool. Literally.
We spent a few hours there, then headed back to PS. Carmen even managed to get me into another spa for a couples massage. My masseuse must have trained for WWF, because she had some killer moves that made me wince! Not sure if it felt "relaxing", but I can still walk, which is good.
The last time we were in PS was after we first arrived, if you recall. This time we didnt have the 118F heat to contend with. This time it was a balmy 97F (about 30C). I had booked us into a flash hotel and spa in the desert city of La Quinta. This place had free breakfast, free happy hour each night complete with free snacks, a pool and fitness room.
We took advantage of all of these less the pool. I had gotten a bit too much sun by the pool in Mammoth, so was still glowing in the dark, and in no state to scare the locals. It was still too hot anyway, even at 9pm.
The aim of being here this time was to decompress further after our whistle-stop tour so far. Visiting and staying with friends or family is great, but is taxing. So is checking in and out of hotels every few days. It was also to be close to Carmen's Brother, so we could visit one more time, which we did. It was good to see them again and share a few laughs over a great lunch.
This time round we didn't go up the aerial tramway again due to high winds. This time I picked one of the local canyons to explore. Being on Indian land, they are managed by the local tribe of the Agua Caliente Indians. It was quite something to be out in the desert in 100F heat, yet be cool under the shade of centuries-old palm trees in an oasis! Very cool. Literally.
We spent a few hours there, then headed back to PS. Carmen even managed to get me into another spa for a couples massage. My masseuse must have trained for WWF, because she had some killer moves that made me wince! Not sure if it felt "relaxing", but I can still walk, which is good.
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| Aahh. Cool! |
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| Outside the canyon |
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| Split rock. In foreground is a traditional "mortar and pestle" rock. |
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| An Indian wikiyup shelter |
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| Inside the wikiyup. |
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| Atop the canyon. Back in the heat. |
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| Some private cabins just outside the park. |
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| Almost sitting on the cactus! |
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| Palm canyon |
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| I wish our road signs were this direct. |
11 September 2016
Into Mammoth country
After the madness of YOS, we headed to the area of Mammoth Lakes on the eastern Sierras. Getting there necessitated driving up over the Tioga pass at over 9900ft (3300m - oxygen, anyone?), past some lovely little lakes (which we stopped at for lunch), then down the other side to Mammoth.
Think of Tekapo on steroids, mixed with a bit of Queenstown and the Remarks. Pine trees everywhere; crisp, clean air, and not many people outside of the town. Heaven.
This time we were staying in a condo owned by a mate of Carmen's, who gave us a great rate. The place was palatial, to say the least. We loved it.
We went for a couple of hikes round some lakes, as you do in this country when it's not ski-season. This time, however, we did feel the altitude a bit, huffing and puffing a bit more than usual. So we took it easy and didnt do any long hikes this time round. One of the lakes was called "Convict lake". Nothing to do with Aussies..haha. It was so-named after a shootout in the 1800's between three escaped convicts and a pursuing posse. One of the posse was killed and the convicts escaped (later recaptured and hanged). The thing that struck me about this area was just how similar to South Canterbury or parts of Otago it looked. A lot more granite rocks, sure, but still has schist-type rocks, shingle slides etc. Apart from the different trees, it looked like it could hold Tahr, Chamois or Wallabies! However, this was Black Bear country, so we had to be noisy when we walked to avoid scaring one. Our heads were on a swivel as we walked, keeping a wary eye out, just in case....quite a bit different to tramping in NZ, where nothing can eat you, eh?
Think of Tekapo on steroids, mixed with a bit of Queenstown and the Remarks. Pine trees everywhere; crisp, clean air, and not many people outside of the town. Heaven.
This time we were staying in a condo owned by a mate of Carmen's, who gave us a great rate. The place was palatial, to say the least. We loved it.
We went for a couple of hikes round some lakes, as you do in this country when it's not ski-season. This time, however, we did feel the altitude a bit, huffing and puffing a bit more than usual. So we took it easy and didnt do any long hikes this time round. One of the lakes was called "Convict lake". Nothing to do with Aussies..haha. It was so-named after a shootout in the 1800's between three escaped convicts and a pursuing posse. One of the posse was killed and the convicts escaped (later recaptured and hanged). The thing that struck me about this area was just how similar to South Canterbury or parts of Otago it looked. A lot more granite rocks, sure, but still has schist-type rocks, shingle slides etc. Apart from the different trees, it looked like it could hold Tahr, Chamois or Wallabies! However, this was Black Bear country, so we had to be noisy when we walked to avoid scaring one. Our heads were on a swivel as we walked, keeping a wary eye out, just in case....quite a bit different to tramping in NZ, where nothing can eat you, eh?
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| Lake May campground |
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| Lake May from another angle |
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| Lake Bartlett |
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| TJ lake |
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| TJ lake |
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| Our lunch spot at TJ lake. Carmen looking for fish. |
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| Convict lake from the south |
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| The trail heading up behind the lake |
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| About to enter the John Muir Wilderness |
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| Wanna play "spot the wallaby" above Convict lake? |
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| Pausing to admire the scenery. |
Yogi bear and BooBoo go exploring...
After chilling in Tahoe, we headed further south to Yosemite National Park. We actually stayed in a nearby town called Mariposa, which had quaint shops dating back to the cowboy days.
So each day we would drive into YOS, park up and go for a walk. The valley floor is so popular (due mainly to the views of the local icons like "El Capitan" (a BF granite cliff), "half-dome"(a BF bald granite rock/dome that lost half of itself way back when, and you can only climb with the aid of chains/ropes/ladders). There are lovely grassy meadows with some deer, also in the valley. Mostly full of tourists taking selfies, but some deer...we saw one.
Speaking of deer, we headed up a track one of the days, and no more than 50m from the road, within sound of tourism chaos, smells of diesel fumes from tour buses, we came across a Black-tail doe, grazing away next to the track. Not fazed in the slightest.
Anyway, a short, sharp 1.3 mile climb up to a vantage point not usually visited, rewarded us with stunning views of the valley floor, but in peace and quiet! Another couple graciously took our piccy, and we returned the favour (or is that favor, since we are in the US?)
Back down in the valley, we still battled with traffic jams, throngs of people and a busy souvenir shop, but muddled through somehow. I even managed to keep my cool and not shout at anyone who slowed us down....
Anyway, enough babbling, here are some photos of country that can only be described as BIG....
So each day we would drive into YOS, park up and go for a walk. The valley floor is so popular (due mainly to the views of the local icons like "El Capitan" (a BF granite cliff), "half-dome"(a BF bald granite rock/dome that lost half of itself way back when, and you can only climb with the aid of chains/ropes/ladders). There are lovely grassy meadows with some deer, also in the valley. Mostly full of tourists taking selfies, but some deer...we saw one.
Speaking of deer, we headed up a track one of the days, and no more than 50m from the road, within sound of tourism chaos, smells of diesel fumes from tour buses, we came across a Black-tail doe, grazing away next to the track. Not fazed in the slightest.
Anyway, a short, sharp 1.3 mile climb up to a vantage point not usually visited, rewarded us with stunning views of the valley floor, but in peace and quiet! Another couple graciously took our piccy, and we returned the favour (or is that favor, since we are in the US?)
Back down in the valley, we still battled with traffic jams, throngs of people and a busy souvenir shop, but muddled through somehow. I even managed to keep my cool and not shout at anyone who slowed us down....
Anyway, enough babbling, here are some photos of country that can only be described as BIG....
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| BooBoo about to enter the park |
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| Me and John Muir looking at the grandeur |
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| View up one valley on one walk we did |
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| Yay! Made it up! |
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| Time for a pic-a-nic, BooBoo? |
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| El Cap on the left; half-dome centre rear. |
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| Bambi by the track. 3m away and not worried at all. |
California dreamin'.....part two
The Pacific coast was swapped for the Sierra Nevada mountains, sea-level for altitude. I love the beach, but love the mountains more. As John Muir the explorer said: "the mountains are calling, and I must go". Its the same for me.
Our next stop was the alpine lake town of South Lake Tahoe. This lake is the second deepest (after Crater lake), and is interesting in that it straddles the state line between California and Nevada. As gambling is illegal in CA unless on an Indian reservation, there are no casino's in Tahoe on the CA side, but as soon as you cross the state line, its like mini-Vegas.
Our hotel was right on the beach, complete with hammocks under the pines, which we used a couple of times. The food, as usual, was plentiful and good.
While at Tahoe, we drove round to Emerald bay. This is the site of a Viking-inspired castle complete with a tea-house on its own island. It was too windy to hire a SUP, so we hired a double kayak and headed out to the island. We could have landed where everyone else did, but that isnt my style....so we headed round to the steep side of the rock, went ashore there, and climbed up the hard way. Carmen did really well, considering I pushed her out of her comfort zone somewhat. We made it safely to the top and were rewarded with stunning views.
After returning the kayaks, we had a bite to eat, then headed out on the Rubicon trail along the lake edge. We didnt go far, as we found a private sandy beach and had a quick dip to cool off. Bracing!
Our next stop was the alpine lake town of South Lake Tahoe. This lake is the second deepest (after Crater lake), and is interesting in that it straddles the state line between California and Nevada. As gambling is illegal in CA unless on an Indian reservation, there are no casino's in Tahoe on the CA side, but as soon as you cross the state line, its like mini-Vegas.
Our hotel was right on the beach, complete with hammocks under the pines, which we used a couple of times. The food, as usual, was plentiful and good.
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| Hammock on the beach! |
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| Ta-dah! |
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| SUPing at sunset at Tahoe. |
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| Viking castle |
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| Looking out to the island from the castle |
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| "who are the Cockleshell heroes, again?" |
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| View from within the tea-house, looking west towards main part of Lake Tahoe. |
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| Made it! |
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| View of island from lake side. |
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| Once a tree-hugger, always a tree-hugger.... |
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| Now I know where Jeep get their Rubicon model name from...? |
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| Oh oh! Keep the snacks hidden, honey! |
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| Our own private beach... |
California dreamin'.....part one
We were back in the land of fruits and nuts again - California. A wee town just over the border from Oregon, called Mount Shasta, was our overnight stop. Quite nice, reasonably quiet, and with great views of the hills. We even went out for a Chinese meal and sampled the local beer. It seems that every town, big or small, has either a Chinese or Thai restaurant/takeaway over here. Quite useful...
After a well-earned break, we headed SW and to the coast. It was time to visit some friends of Carmen's in Mendocino/Fort Bragg area. Their place, nestled in amongst the furs and pines, was a great haven for us. Two great big German Shepherds completed the scene. An added bonus for me, was it was only a short 1.5 miles down to the beach for a sneaky run, and not far to another light-house! It was also a couple of miles from a local hiking trail-head, so we went for a hike through the forest on one of the days. We sampled the local beers, Northern CA being an emerging craft-beer region, both in the pubs, but also at home during a "beer and cheese tasting". Glass beach was also nearby - the site of a former glass factory - now a tourist attraction for the glass "pebbles" left over. I could go on about just how much we enjoyed our stay there, but in the interests of brevity, will leave you with some photos.
After a week at Deb and Ray's, we bid farewell, saddled up our trusty Ford Focus steed, and headed off into the sunset, er, I mean sunshine - southeast this time.
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| Mount Shasta on the way to our overnight stop. Looks a little like one of our mountains, eh? |
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| Smoke from one of the many wild-fires in California at the time. |
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| Lighthouse at Camarillo point. |
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| Some rugged Pacific NW coastline. |
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| Two random tourists, their guides and security party (the dogs). |
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| Stunning, eh? |
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| Searching for the elusive blue glass, at Glass beach... |
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| Another beach, another peaceful day. |
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